The forgotten coast of Dalmatia: why the stretch between Zadar and Šibenik will steal your heart

Mention Croatia and most people immediately think of Dubrovnik. They think of the orange rooftops, the hustle and bustle by the city walls and the famous spots that attract so many travellers. Or they think of Split, Hvar or the Makarska Riviera. All of them are beautiful — we, Cynthia & Richard, certainly don’t deny that.

But there’s a stretch of the Dalmatian coast that many travellers overlook. And that’s precisely why, after all these years spent along the Adriatic Sea, we find ourselves drawn back there time and time again.

The stretch of coast between Zadar and Šibenik. Central Dalmatia. Quieter, more authentic and brimming with a kind of beauty that you can’t capture in a single photo, but which you do take home with you.

Zadar: the start of something special

For many, Zadar is just a stop-off, but it deserves far more than that. The old town is compact and lively, and the local market in the morning is a feast for all the senses. And at sunset, walking past the Sea Organ — an organ played by the waves of the Adriatic Sea — you get the feeling that the city itself is breathing.

Zadar is the perfect gateway to the stretch of coastline that most travellers never discover. From here, you head south, and that’s where the part of the coast begins that draws us back time and time again.

The Kornati Islands: tranquillity on the water

Just south of Zadar, the coast opens up to the Kornati archipelago: more than 140 uninhabited islands, rocks and islets, protected as a national park. Anyone who spends a day sailing here — on a hire boat or on a local day trip — immediately understands what unspoilt nature truly means.

The water is crystal-clear, the silence almost palpable. This is the sort of place that reminds you how rarely you truly find peace.

Murter: the island as a village experience

The island of Murter is accessible via a small bridge and feels as though the tourist world has never really penetrated it. Local fishermen, narrow streets, a terrace serving grilled fish and views across the bay — this is the Croatia your parents might have spoken of.

And it still exists, if you’re willing to drive a little further off the beaten track.

Primošten: the picturesque seaside village

If you’re heading towards Šibenik, you can’t miss Primošten. The town lies on a small peninsula – almost an islet – surrounded by the glistening sea. Wine-growing here dates back centuries — the stone walls surrounding the vineyards have even been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A glass of local Babić wine at sunset on a terrace here is an experience that few places along the Adriatic coast can match.

Šibenik: the Dalmatian coast’s best-kept secret

Šibenik is less well-known than Split or Dubrovnik, but is home to St James’s Cathedral, one of the finest Gothic-Renaissance buildings on the Adriatic coast — and it is also recognised by UNESCO. The old town winds its way up through narrow alleyways, the atmosphere is authentic and tourism here is still on a human scale.

You can eat at a local restaurant without the menu being printed in five languages and prices being doubled for the tourist season.

Why this stretch of coast in particular?

We’ve been travelling along the Adriatic coast for years and keep coming back to this region. Not because it’s on a ‘must-see’ list, but because it surprises us time and time again. The people are warm and welcoming, the food is wholesome and delicious, the natural scenery is breathtaking, and the places aren’t — yet — overrun with tourists.

This is the Dalmatia you’ll never forget.

Over the coming weeks, we’ll be sharing more about this beautiful region — from hidden swimming spots and local restaurant tips to the most stunning coastal driving routes. Follow us on Facebook or Instagram so you don’t miss a thing, and feel free to send us a message if you have any questions about the Croatian coast. We’d be happy to tell you all about it.

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See you soon,

Cynthia & Richard